Tour 1 - Northern Delights
The fascination of a 5,000 year old culture - 11 days - 1150 km
Price details
Highlights
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DAY-BY-DAY PROGRAM
DAY 1. Negombo - Chilaw (Munneswaram) - Uddapuwa - Kalpitiya - 175 km
From Negombo 
, we'll drive on the main road towards Chilaw/Puttalam for a few kilometer, then turning right to Dankotuwa, running parallel with the main road, but much less traffic. Shortly before Chilaw we join the main road again. In Chilaw we visit the Munneswaram Hindu Temple 
, one of the most prestigious in the country.
Further on the road, about half way between Chilaw and Puttalam, we turn to the seaside to visit Uddapuwa, a remarkable little fishing village. Large ocean fish are brought in by boat, small fish are catched by huge nets from the seashore. On the beach, under little thatched roofs, the fish is sorted. Part of the catch is loaded onto little trucks and brought to far away markets, the remaining part is dried on the beach, producing 'dried' or 'maldivian' fish, extensively used in Sri Lankan cooking. Uddapuwa has its share of cultural traditions too with two Hindu temples (one of which has a huge sculptured tower 
), a mosque 
and a little church 
.
From Uddapuwa, we continue north along the beach for as long as possible, before returning for a last little stretch on the main road. A few kilometer further we branch again to the left, following te road to Kalpitiya, an ancient stronghold fort overlooking Dutch Bay and the Puttalam lagoon. The old Dutch Fort 
is perfectly reserved, but not open to visitors, as it is in use by the Sri Lankan Army. After a visit to the 17th century Dutch 'St. Peter's Kirk'
, and a look in the often overlooked western peninsula, we drive towards our hotel for the night.
DAY 2. Kalpitiya - Talawila - Puttalam (African village) - Wilpattu NP - 95 km + 4X4 safari (100 km)
A short distance from our overnight stay is Talawila 
, a renowded pilgrim destination with its St. Anne's Shrine. The whole complex is spaciously set up against a beautiful see front scenery. In March and July, thousands of pilgrims flock together for large processions and celebrations.
From Talawila we drive back to the main road, pass through Puttalam and head for Wilpattu NP. Along the road we take a short deviation to a local attraction, secretly hided from the tourist tracks: a little settlement of African immigrants 
, mixed with the local population for several generations, but with unmistakenly African physical features left.
The main feature of today is, of course, a 4x4 safari trek in Wilpattu National Park 
, one of the oldest and largest parks in the country. It has been closed during most of the war period, and is still sparsely visited. Marshy lakes (wewas) and dense scrub hide a treasure of animals and birds: sloth bear, leopards, wild boar, deer and a small population of elephants. Landscape scenery is exceptional 
.
While the bike ride was short, the safari can be demanding, so we'll arrive pretty exhausted at our overnigt's stay.
DAY 3. Wilpattu NP - Mahavilachchiya - Tantirimale - Anuradhapura - 180 km
Although Anuradhapura is less than 40 km away, it will take us a long day on little back roads to reach it.
First we head for Mahavilachchiya, an extensive village tucked away in a corner of Wilpattu NP. With village life continuing as ever, this quiet agrarian settlement of mixed Sinhala and Tamil population 
, would never have become known to the outside world, if it hadn't been for a remarkable man, 'Wanni', a local teacher. He started a small initiative of 'extra classes' in English and computer skills 
, based on the view of 'passing on the ball'. The young teens passed on their knowledge to the even younger ones, and within the 10 years of existence, has become an IT center, competing with Colombo! The whole village is IT-interconnected with a mesh network, and outsourcing activities galore. Even the 'adult' population has invaded the internet, reading their favorite newspapers on-line, and first-of-all scrutinizing market prices of agricultural products, a knowledge well used in lengthy negotiations with the buyers of their produce.
Enduring some hardship on tiny little jungle roads, we reach out for Tantirimale (Rajamaha Viharaya) 
, one of the very first Buddhist settlements in Sri Lanka (6th century BC), magnificently set in a hilly stretch edging the northeastern corner of Wilpattu Strict Natural Reserve. Once a thriving city in the 7-8th century, it was invaded and totally destroyed, leaving the desolate empty landscape of today. It was only early in the 20th century that the remains of Tantirimale were rediscovered. The temple was partly restored, but with all great plans for the future, the finances are lacking to revive the ancient gem. You'll love it, even more in the knowledge that very, very few visitors of Sri Lanka have seen what you have!
After some more road struggling, we reach the main Mannar-Anuradhapura road for a short and easy drive to the ancient capital and cultural center of Anuradhapura.
DAY 4. Anuradhapura (excursion to sacred city and Mihintale - 40 km round)
This day is devoted entirely to discover the ancient city of Anuradhapura, northeast of the new town. The area is vast, and different walking excursions are interconnected with short bike drives. Anuradhapura has been the religious and royal center of Sri Lanka from 447 BC well up to the 12th century. After that, it got completely lost in the jungle, only to be rediscovered by Ralph Backhaus in the early 19th century 
. Since its rediscovery, archeologists have strived in research, excavation and restoration ever since. Today, several parts of its Buddhist and Hindu history are well restored and provide for a refreshing and relaxed day between magnificent temples and old stones. 
We'll start with the famous Bo-tree 
, a sapling from the original Bo-tree in Bodhgaya, under which Buddha received enlightment. As such, it is one of the holiest Buddhist in Sri Lanka and in the world.
A short walk around the area will lead us through some of the oldest parts of the sacred city (a.o. the Brazen Palace).
Next we drive along the edge of the old Royal Palace area to the northern edge of the city, around the Abhagiriya Dagoba, with extensive ruins and excavations 
.
A short drive even more to the north brings us to a rough but impressive stone bridge, probably part of the historic northern entry road to Anuradhapura. Expect no other tourists, as few visitors make it up to here. We drive back to the south along a small road boardering a little river. Don't give too much attention to the many pretty damsels here taking a bath or washing their clothes, as their fathers, brothers or husbands have a tendency to be of the jealous kind.
Once back in the city, we turn to Mihintale 
, just a few km east of Anuradhapura. While of equal mature age, Mihintale is probably the most lively part of the cultural inheritance. It is exactly here that King Devanampiya was converted to Buddhism in 243 BC, and is still a living and thriving center of Buddhist religious culture
, set on a beautiful hilltop 
. Yes, it's a tempting climb up, but as it ends the tour of today, just take it easy. From here we head back for the hotel.
DAY 5. Anuradhapura - Ritigala Reserve - Sigiriya - 105 km
Today a leisurely drive from Anuradhapura to Sigiriya. Most of the time we'll drive among paddy fields and little lakes or waterponds. The road is generally good and, although a main road, with little traffic. If you're a chili-lover, you'll probably have the chance to buy a few kg somewhere along the road. This rather dry area seems to produce the best of peppers.
At about 2/3 of today's tour, we'll pass Ritigale Strict Natural Reserve. Inside the Reserve are some partially restored ruins of a quite extensive monastic complex and cave dwellings 
[(c) imagebang@gmail.com]. Nothing of the common stuff here (no Bo-tree, no image house), but famous for its 'urinal stones' with erotic carvings. The story goes that it used to remind the monks demonstrating their contempt for worldly things by peeing on them, but you're allowed to have your own ideas on the subject. Mythology attributes to this place an unusual abundance of medicinal plants and herbs. The little hill indeed enjoys a micro-climate much cooler and wetter than its dry surroundings. The more than 70 caves (in addition to monastic buildings, a hospital and palace ruins) provided shelter for monks and refuge for royalty in a period between 4th century BC to the 9th century AD. Then it remained deserted until it was rediscovered by early 19th century explorers.
DAY 6. Sigiriya (balloon flight in season Oct-April) - Minneriya/Giritale (4X4 safari)- Polonnaruwa - 58 km
During the balloon season we'll get up at an unearthly hour to make it for the early morning flight, followed by a luxurious breakfast. Otherwise, take your time to a healthy breakfast before attempting the steep climb to the Rock Palace 
. Beware of strong winds on the top! And don't miss the world famous Sigiriya maidens 
, even though some of the paintings have unfortunately received a decensy treatment comparable with their European style 'olive leafs' on Greek and Roman statues.
On your way down, you get great overviews of the beautiful garden constructions 
, which can compete with Versailles, only well over 1000 years older.
Later in the morning we hit the road to Polonnaruwa, interspersed with a leisurely 4x4 safari around the Minneriya Lake 
. The Minneriya Tank is a handmade construction of the 4th century. At the end of the dry season, there's not much water left, so animal activity is pretty concentrated on to the last wet parts of this 3,000 ha large park.
A last short drive takes us to our hotel in Polonnaruwa 
.
DAY 7. Polonnaruwa (city visit, rest day) - free excursion to Gunner's Quoin - 50 km round
A free day to rest, linger around, or participate in whatever activity you desire.
For those who crave for more old stones, a visit to the ruins of Polonnaruwa is the way out of boredom. As it is much younger (11-13th century) than Anuradhapura, the sites are much better conserved. It's simploy amazing to see what only 3 kings in a short period of 89 years have established for the delight of future generations.
For those who prefer to stretch their legs a bit more, there's an excursion to nearby Gunners Quoin (Dimbulagala), a 550 m high hill with a dagoba on top 
. At the base is the Raja Maha Vihara (monastery), and in between a series of 15 cave dwellings with Brahmi inscriptions and some leftovers of early mural paintings. The whole has been an active hermitage nearly unbroken from the 3rd century BC up to current times.
DAY 8. Polonnaruwa - between Wasgomuwa (4X4 safari) and Maduru Oya NP - Mahiyangana - 150 km
From Polonnaruwa we continue on a good road almost entirely southwards, driving between Maduru Oya NP at the left and Wasgomuwa NP at the right. Alas, good views are rare, as on bot sides of the road vegetation rises high.
At the lower part of the road we turn right and climb our way up to the entry of Wasgamuwa NP for a 4x4 safari. The park has an elephant population of about 150, besides buffalos, spotted deer and crocodiles. Birdlife is extensive too. It's one of the youngest National Parks (1984) after being a Strict Natural Reserve since 1938. It is one of the lesser visited parks, so easier to avoid the classical traffic jams that occur in Yala.
After the safari, we continue our way to Mahiyangana, where we are quartered in the Sorabora Gedara Hotel. Beware of the Veddahs who are sometimes hunting in the area.
DAY 9. Mahiyangana - Victoria Dam - Kandy - 90 km
Today we avoid the busy A26 to Kandy and take the longer route through the Randenigala Sanctuary, still a pretty wild area. Make sure you tank up before the trip, as there's no fuel available along the way. Stock up on drinking water as well.
From Minipe onwards we follow the Minipe Right Bank Canal for about 30 km and later cross the Randenigala Reservoir Dam 
. After that you can expect some spectacular driving along the south ridge of the Reservoir. This is a wild and practically uninhabited area. It's not unusual to have wild elephants roaming in the area, although they usually stay close to the water edge.
From this end we don't acutally cross Victoria Dam 
, but get a really impressive look at it from the distance.
The transition from the loneliness of the wild nature into bustling ity of Kandy is quite abrupt, so take your time to 'adjust to humanity'.
In the evening, we try to arrange tickets for a performance of the typical Kandyan dancing.
DAY 10. Kandy (visit) - Knuckles Range - Elkaduwa - 45 km
The whole morning is spent on a leisurely walk in the heart of Kandy. Of course, a visit to the famous Temple of the Tooth 
is included in te program. But there's a lot more to discover. As usual, we'll show you some hidden places, of which most visitors are unaware.
After an early lunch, we'll hit the road for a discovery of nearby Knuckles Range 
, a mixture of fine mountains, lush green and tea plantations. For the night we stay at Elkaduwa, a quiet place in Knuckles Range, with some spectacular scenery. Particularly early mornings can be beautiful with some misty patches hanging over the mountains.
DAY 11. Elkaduwa - Pinnawela (visit) - Negombo - 155 km
The last day will mainly be a drive back to Negombo.
From Elkaduwa, we travel over small interior roads towards Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage 
. Unfortunately, natural habitat for elephants is becoming smaller each year, and confrontation between wild elephants and angry farmers are an increasing problem. As a consequence, each year a number of elephants get shot, sometimes leaving behind small babies. Pinnawela is specialised in taking care of these babies, training them, and supplying them to the market of work elephants. In the interior of Sri Lanka, still a lot of forest work (and road work) is carried out with the help of elephants.
There's not only babies to see, the Orphanage also takes care of old elephants. One of the permanent inhabitants is a magnificent tusker, who, unfortunately, is totally blind.
From Pinnawela, it's a short ride to Kurunegala, and from there to Negombo is a rather pleasant drive on good roads.
In the evening, the tour is concluded with a complimentary BBQ to say thank you for joining us, and goodbye for those who are returning to their home countries.
